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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 16:06 
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I was on my motorbike today when I came across a place I didn’t know existed in the Cotswolds called About Bikes

I test rode a Trek 7.3 FX and I am in love! I didn’t want to give it back. The brakes, handling and gears are just superb! I have never felt so at ease on any bike I have ridden in my life

The situation is this.. I honestly can’t afford it but my work has a ‘ride to work scheme’ which would help with finance. It costs £450, (£515 with mudguards and back rack), and it’s a lot of bike for the money. There is another model of the same make up from it with CF forks but that was £650 which I cannot justify or stretch to.

I save myself a packet riding to work every day so the 7.3 FX would easily pay for itself in a couple of years or less by my calculation at approx 10 miles a day, five days a week. I also intend to SORN the car to put towards it if I don't get a lodger soon.

After 18+ years of good faithful service my old Stumpjumper is on its last legs sadly and I have been throwing good money after bad for at least the past two years in wheel problems, new chain & sprockets, brake pads etc. I think you get to a point where even if you replace all the usual components you’re still stuck with an antediluvian rust heap so I think it’s time to retire it. I still can’t get the gears working right because they’re worn so that’s yet more money which would be better put towards a new one.

These days my cycling is manly commuting with weekend ride outs; not the mountain hairum scareum I used to do. So I don’t want a road bike and a mountain bike isn’t where I’m at either. (You may remember that Tricross I tried and nearly killed myself on ed about three years ago?). I fell off my Stumpumper the other day because I couldn’t get my blasted foot out of the old cage when I came to a stop which has further put me off it.

So anyway, the shop owner said I need one of these and it’s his most popular bike for what I need one for. He went on to say they’re faster than a mountain bike but more comfortable and suitable than a road racer type. I couldn't argue - it was! :D

I think I’m sold on it, and I haven't treated myself for a long time, but I thought I’d post to get the skinny if anyone has had any experience of Trek or similar makes/models which I may also want to consider like it. It also only weighs 24 lbs, compared to my old Stumpy at 32lbs, not that I’m hung up on weight but they have come a long way in 18 years.

It doesn’t have disc brakes but I often hear how good the V brakes are. I'm ready to phone him so I can get it the next weekend if possible...

The reviews I’ve seen so far look good. http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/fx/73fx/

Thanks in advance guys

Tony

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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 17:16 
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Tone. Whist I would never try to dissuade anyone from buying a quality bike, if you are on a budget it is well worth taking a look in Halfords. A couple of years ago I had to give up riding my trusty Shimano 600 equipped Ribble road bike for health reasons I bought a Carrera Subway from them for about £250, to see if the riding position would be any kinder to my back. Normally I would consider that to be cheap for a frame let alone a whole bike so I didn't expect much - planning to sell it and buy better if I were able to cope with riding. But I still have it and have bought one for my wife. She is mechanically illiterate and usually manages to break things but the Carrera has survived better than any of her other bikes and she uses it quite a lot.

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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 18:06 
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dcbwhaley wrote:
Tone. Whist I would never try to dissuade anyone from buying a quality bike, if you are on a budget it is well worth taking a look in Halfords. A couple of years ago I had to give up riding my trusty Shimano 600 equipped Ribble road bike for health reasons I bought a Carrera Subway from them for about £250, to see if the riding position would be any kinder to my back. Normally I would consider that to be cheap for a frame let alone a whole bike so I didn't expect much - planning to sell it and buy better if I were able to cope with riding. But I still have it and have bought one for my wife. She is mechanically illiterate and usually manages to break things but the Carrera has survived better than any of her other bikes and she uses it quite a lot.

Currently in Richmond Park, got here using my Carrera Fury. The build quality wasn't perfect (the holes for the spokes weren't drilled in the wheels properly, so giving constant punctures, but I soon fixed that), but I reckon I got a good bike for the money (~£400). So I have to agree with you - for once :)

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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 18:59 
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I recently got a 'run about' bike 2nd hand through a store in South London ... I insisted that it have full suspension as it is just so much more comfortable. I would have preferred front & rear hydrolic dic brakes but I just couldn't justify the expense, but I have them on the 'real' bike back North, the V brakes not being a powerful esp in wet or muddy situations.
I would also ensure good quality front suspension as a minimum, and make sure that the gear set is at the top end of the market.
I don't know the bike you are looking at but unless it had the above I would rather have a good 2nd hand better made one than a new less quality one. IMHO. :lol:
Going on freecycle (or ebay) might have one pop up and then spend the money on better replacement parts as long as the frame is good, is another way .... or buy cheap and then slowly add the best components as money allows - is another :)

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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 22:09 
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Front suspension for a commuting bike that you occasionally ride off road, possibly, but only get rear suspension for road riding if you're prepared to put a good percentage of your effort into bouncing up and down rather than going forwards.


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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 04:29 
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Thanks everso DCB, Steve, Claire and Weepej. (There's a sentence I never thought I would write :o ). :)

I really do appreciate your help all, and I mean that from the heart. This is a big thing to me!!!

I want my next bike to be right because I'm not getting any younger and I expect it will probably be my last bicycle, based on how long I had my Stumpjumper and my current age... :roll:

TBVH I was going to just PM ed about this :bow: but I think, (and hope), there are many cyclists' here on SS who are passionate about cycling and who feel that the world doesn't just revolve around all things with a none biological engine ;)

Gotta say now, I am not up to date with modern stuff so I don't know what a "Fury" is :oops: But I'll Google later...

Again - Big thanks everyone :) I'd like to phone the shop owner on Tuesday, latest, if I find that it is a good bike and deal at the price.

That bike just felt incredible to me - honestly...

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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 04:36 
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weepej wrote:
Front suspension for a commuting bike that you occasionally ride off road, possibly, but only get rear suspension for road riding if you're prepared to put a good percentage of your effort into bouncing up and down rather than going forwards.
Just a quickie... Got ya and understand that one already ta weep :)

Got in late tonight; designated driver. Good thing about that though.. You can drop drunks off at the wrong house for a giggle :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 08:20 
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Big Tone wrote:
I want my next bike to be right because I'm not getting any younger and I expect it will probably be my last bicycle, based on how long I had my Stumpjumper and my current age... :roll: .


I am astonished to find that you are in your eighties :evil:

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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 12:00 
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dcbwhaley wrote:
Big Tone wrote:
I want my next bike to be right because I'm not getting any younger and I expect it will probably be my last bicycle, based on how long I had my Stumpjumper and my current age... :roll: .


I am astonished to find that you are in your eighties :evil:
:lol: Ha ha. Well, I'm fit and 51 but I don't expect to make old bones based on my family history and life style. :roll: Too much stress and not enough love.. (Not going for the sympathy vote there BTW :D )

I appreciate where you’re coming from with Halfords but TBH I don’t like these big places overtaking the world, like planet Tesco etc. So, whenever I can, I prefer to help the smaller guys if ya know what I mean. :)


SafeSpeedv2 wrote:
I would also ensure good quality front suspension as a minimum, and make sure that the gear set is at the top end of the market.
I don't know the bike you are looking at but unless it had the above I would rather have a good 2nd hand better made one than a new less quality one. IMHO. :lo
Ah, I did think of getting a front suspension bike but when I bought one with that, the once, I found that the front end bobs a little and saps energy, like you said about the rear weepej, so I ended up keeping the front end locked-out and letting the fat tyres do the absorbing. Also, it’s less to go wrong or maintain. I’ve got the link to it here Claire.


These hybrids are definitely the way to go I think. The one big mistake I made with my Stumpy was getting the wrong size. I’m tall and gangly so got the largest frame which was a mistake and probably why the seating position was never as comfy as this Trek is. The one I sat on was only a 20” frame which sounds small for a 6’ 2” person but everything just felt right and I wasn’t being pushed forward over the handlebars like before.

If you don’t mind me saying Steve; holes not drilled properly? :o That sounds like a terrible build quality in this day and age even for a cheap bike.

:)

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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 16:54 
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Big Tone wrote:
I appreciate where you’re coming from with Halfords but TBH I don’t like these big places overtaking the world, like planet Tesco etc. So, whenever I can, I prefer to help the smaller guys if ya know what I mean. :)


I tend to agree with you. But, OTHH, by selling reasonable quality low price bikes Halfords are encouraging people to start cycling

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These hybrids are definitely the way to go I think.

Very good compromise I think. And you can change the tires to suit where you ride. I don't think suspension is needed for road and trail riding. It just add weight and complexity. When i see a sub £100 full suspension bike my heart sinks.

On size I was surprised how small I had to go to. I rode a 23" road bike but the Carrera is only 18" and doesn't feel too small

ENJOY

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 09:04 
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sorry tone... got laptop problems at home.

there's rarely a good reason not to buy a new bike (spouses aside).

not sure what other wisdom i can give, trek are a decent brand and seem to do a good range of hybrids.
i'm not really up on component levels but i'd guess its mid level stuff which will do for now.
for city riding, slicks & rigid is fine (potholes aside)... to me, v-brakes are preferable to cable operated discs (yuck) and personally i'd say hydraulic discs are overcomplicating things for a runabout.

just make sure they fit it to you well.. as that could make or break the love affair!


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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 09:56 
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Thanks ed. You’re right about the fit of it. Like I mentioned, I completely messed up on that by getting such a large frame but I’m good this time around. :) Actually, after what you said DCB I’m wondering if an even smaller one would be better. I don’t think so but it may be worth trying an 18” just to see. Are you 6’ 2” like me? (Hope your back is going from strength to strength these days BTW).

I’m not sure if there isn’t a bit of snobbery when it comes to components. I’m long out of the loop now but I remember going back to when I got my Stumpjumper I had the DX stuff, which was second from the top of the range, but for a fair bit more you could get XT which was the dogs danglies at the time. (The range is probably called something completely different now but I’m sure the same thing is going on).

I always think the actual difference in terms of longevity and functionality is negligible and more of a boast than anything, but I remain to be corrected. The bike itself seems to be price-fixed everywhere I look, at £450. The mudguards are £30, which are specific to that bike I’m told. And lastly, a rack which brings the total to £515.

I’ve put the figures into the NHS number cruncher and this is how it pans out…

Total cost of bike and accessories
£515

Net cost of bike and accessories, including finance and admin costs (if applicable)
£585.93

Income tax saving over hire period
£117.19

NI saving over hire period
£64.45

Final cost of bike and accessories
£404.29

Total saving**
£110.71

Gross salary sacrifice, based on 12 month hire period (this should be the figure displayed on your hire agreement)
£48.83

Net salary sacrifice, based on 12 month hire period
£33.69

Percentage saving over RRP
21.5%


**Please note :A Fair Market Value payment may be payable upon cessation of the agreement or at the end of the lease period.


This would come directly out of my pay each month, so I shouldn't miss it I hope and I can offset it by cycling to work and using carbohydrates at the weekend instead of petrol :D

Unfortunately I have to get it from a partner store which excludes the shop I saw it in but there are a wide selection of good old family owned ones. My biggest angst is the usual NHS faff factor while admin let the application gather dust for two months which makes me wonder if it’s worth bothering with the scheme, but beggars can’t be choosers as they say. It has to go to a commissioner to see if I’m eligible. Of course I’m eligible! Get on with it!!

The bloomin’ summer will be over by the time I get it. :hoppingmad:

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 10:20 
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Big Tone wrote:
Thanks ed. You’re right about the fit of it. Like I mentioned, I completely messed up on that by getting such a large frame but I’m good this time around. :) Actually, after what you said DCB I’m wondering if an even smaller one would be better. I don’t think so but it may be worth trying an 18” just to see. Are you 6’ 2” like me? (Hope your back is going from strength to strength these days BTW).


I am 3" shorter than you, Tone, so a 2" larger bike is probably right for you.[

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I’m not sure if there isn’t a bit of snobbery when it comes to components.

It is like all technology. Below a certain price you are just wasting money; then there is a linear section where quality increases with price; then here is a plateau of diminishing return. I think that the trick is to identify that "knee" and buy at that level. I too am out of the loop but the Shimano 600 groupset on my old road bike has gone twenty years without problems.

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 10:42 
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That’s really helpful thanks.

A 20” sounds right and it certainly felt like it was a good fit. That said, I remember all those years ago a cycling fanatic friend of mine, who was as tall as me, got a very small frame and a seat post as long as a javelin. His argument was that the smaller the frame the less it flexes and more power is transferred to the ground instead of distorting the frame.

He said this is what he read and what he believed to be true from trying it. I know I could certainly never catch the bugger up. :x It was like trying to follow Greg LeMond but TBH I think he was also taking something. :roll: I lived for cycling back then, (early 90s), and had a resting pulse rate of 46 BPM.

It's up at about 60 bpm now Image I think it's because the summer's only just started and I'm still carrying winter blubber :D

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 10:58 
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Big Tone wrote:
That said, I remember all those years ago a cycling fanatic friend of mine, who was as tall as me, got a very small frame and a seat post as long as a javelin. His argument was that the smaller the frame the less it flexes and more power is transferred to the ground instead of distorting the frame.


IMO, as an engineer, that is nonsense. A triangle (the frame) is an extremely rigid structure whereas an unbraced strut (the seatpost) is quite flexible. If he was correct a ladies stepthrough frame would be more rigid than a diamond frame. And how many ladies frame do you see in the Tour De France, even the ladies event :D The reason racing cyclist use long seatposts is to permit a more aerodynamic position with the riders back almost horizontal.

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He said this is what he read and what he believed to be true from trying it. I know I could certainly never catch the bugger up
in my Yorkshire youth I couldn't keep up with Nim Carline when he was riding a 40lb roadster, wearing wellies and carrying a load of rhubarb on his back :D

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 11:19 
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dcbwhaley wrote:
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He said this is what he read and what he believed to be true from trying it. I know I could certainly never catch the bugger up
in my Yorkshire youth I couldn't keep up with Nim Carline when he was riding a 40lb roadster, wearing wellies and carrying a load of rhubarb on his back :D
:rotfl: I have a vivid imagination :D

On the frame thing...

It seemed on the surface to make sense though. I'm sure I'm wrong about this, (thought I'd get that in quickly), but the dynmamics of a smaller triangle would surely be harder to laterally bend than a larger one, maybe, perhaps, possibly?

At the risk of looking like a fool, I'd like to know just the same if someone can explain it fully. :oops:

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 11:33 
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When I am out of the seat ‘going for it’ the bike moves side to side, going from an angle of say 10 degrees from the vertical and I am effectively putting effort into flexing the frame sideways. This is wasted energy really. Now if the frame is smaller it seems feasible that the effect of this torsion on the frame would be less.
Image

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 12:41 
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Big Tone wrote:
When I am out of the seat ‘going for it’ the bike moves side to side, going from an angle of say 10 degrees from the vertical and I am effectively putting effort into flexing the frame sideways. This is wasted energy really. Now if the frame is smaller it seems feasible that the effect of this torsion on the frame would be less.
Image

I think I have to agree. The seat post doesn't carry any power load (at least not for me), especially when out of it, so a longer seat post may not mean more wasted energy.

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 13:22 
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Steve wrote:
I think I have to agree. The seat post doesn't carry any power load (at least not for me), especially when out of it, so a longer seat post may not mean more wasted energy.


When you are pedalling in a seated the force exerted by your feet on the pedals in matched by a similar force from your backside on the saddle. This exerts a fore and aft flexing force on the connection between the pedal axis and the seat. The lower part of that connection (the seat tube) is triangulated by the top tube and is very stiff. The upper part (the seat post) is cantilever and is quite flexible. That is why seat pillars use much thicker wall ( hence heavier) tubing than do frame tubes.

But a larger frame deviates significantly from a triangle because of the length of the head tube. This can be overcome by having a top tube sloping upwards from a short head tube to just below the seat. This can be seen in its most extreme form in Francesco Moser's 'Big Wheel' bike which he used to break the hour record in, I think, 1988 [url]http://piste-and-road.blogspot.com/2009/11/moser-on-big-wheel.html/[url]. The success of that bike caused the UCI to ban it from competition

If one followed the 'smaller triangle is stiffer theory' to its logical conclusion you would end up with a bicycle with a zero size triangle - there would be no top tube. It is obvious to me that such a frame, unless made of very thick tubing, would be extremely flexible - flexible to the point where, if made of aluminium, it would die of fatigue very quickly.

A bicycle frame is an almost two dimensional structure and as such has very little lateral stiffness. Such stiffness as it has is provided by the diameter of the tubing which is why modern aluminium frames use larger diameter tubing rather than thicker walled tubing

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 13:30 
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I know my trigonometry and physics quite well Steve, (not like you mind :) ), but I would struggle to work this one out mathematically. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s not something which can be measured other than empirically under scientific conditions with a cyclist hooked-up on a rolling road.

When I’m pounding away I can physically see the bottom bracket flexing in relation to the head stock and forks as I push down on one side and pull with the other foot firmly strapped into the cage. At a guess, the frame movement at the bottom bracket at the extreme laterally is something like a good inch movement sideways in relationship to the front wheel axle, if that made sense.

When I tried my friend’s Cannondale once, which was made from huge diameter stiff aluminium compound known for its superior strength and a smaller frame, it was a totally different sensation. I got the feeling I was getting more from it but I don’t know if that was just experimenter’s bias on my part.

I wonder if there’s any research on this. I may need to order a 14” frame yet :D . I feel a Google coming on…

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