In Gear wrote:
I hope you are not suggesting modern sports bike are dangerous or should be banned? And FWIW there are NO double ton bikes. The best you will do is a Hayabusa which in the correct atmospheric conditions can just about touch 190. So thats all right then
And you are right about people recapturing their youth, I was lucky enough to ride the new GSXR1000 a few weeks ago. I am used to 1000s, I ride one often but this has the power of a 1300cc 'busa, and the weight of a 400. Just because you rode a 1000 in 1960 does not mean you want a 1000 today. In fact if you rode a 1000 in 1960, try a 400 today.
In Gear wrote:
come equipped with a very powerful quartz-halogen headlight anyway - throws a very intense beam. Tungsten gives an inadequate night beam - so if your bike has tungstens and you feel this is not enough - hence your feeling you "are doing right by using mains" - then perhaps you could consider an upgrade - which means you have a good light which does not blind people.
I am happy with the tungestons on the GSF and the GSX but they are not as good as those on the triumph. I think its more a case of the whole package. My Triumphs dipped lights are many times brighter than either that of my GSX of GSF on main beam. However the Triumph has a 'hard' edge to the light where as the GSX and GSF have a fading edge.
Another thing to bear in mind is the attitude of a bike varies much more than that of a car. I can lift the nose of the Triumph by around 4 inches (very easily done on hard acceleration)before the front looses all grip effectively this rises the pair of dipped headlights to the same level of the main beam.
In Gear wrote:
Oh - you have to check the bike's alternator could cope with the bigger power demand - - but usually you can fit into the existing headlight shells on the lower medium range or older bikes.
Usually you get the new headlamp cluster from the latest version of your model. I have a friend with a Pan E who has fitted front spotlights. He can run about 30 minutes until he needs a bump start or to call the AA.
In Gear wrote:
Whilst I am on about lights... REAR LIGHTS! Notoriusly poor on motorbikes - very few incorporate fog lights - and perhaps those sold for trailers and caravans are the easiest to fit and adapt for motrocycle use
No bikes I am aware of have rear fog lights. Rear LED lights really help. After a quick survey of the back of my bikes there is nowhere to mount a fog light. Some top boxes have LED arrays in (mine do) which are a good addition.
In Gear wrote:
Always carry spare bulbs (but well wrapped if in a pocket

- glass hurts w if you do fall off!

) as bike lights are prone to failure because of vibration - and check all wiring etc before setting off
Modern (Jap) bikes do not have the barbaric criminal wiring of old british bikes, they start in the wet and the electrics 'just work'.
Not much point carrying front bulbs for any of mine, its a 30 minute job to swap the bulbs at best. Not fun in the dark on a hard shoulder. Its what the AA are for! On the plus side modern (japanesse) bikes seem to manage ok. In the last 6 years I have had two indicator bulbs go and that was due to faulty aftermarket indicators.
In Gear wrote:
As for the "advantages" - we had all this before when Kriss upset the cyclists over being visible - the argument aas Ted recaps being "if we are all in day -glo etc - we cease to stand out" and as things stand at the moment - people do not seem to see police cars with full lights and woo-woos.
If you see lots of hi vi then you see lots of hazard. Frankly if you want my hi vi jacket then you will have the fight of you life on your hands, its one of my core pieces of kit.
In Gear wrote:
Perhaps more lessons in how to observe...

And a realisation that RAIN and GLOOM mean DUSK conditions and THUS DIPPED LIGHTS - whatever season.
If you promised me all drivers were making some effort at observing I would rethink my position. However I have learnt the hard way that most dont and expecting them not to even try to observe increases my life expectancy.