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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 09:08 
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Telegraph here
Telegraph - David Millward, Transport Editor wrote:
Brussels plans to test drivers on environmental friendliness
By David Millward, Transport Editor
Published: 7:00AM BST 24 Jul 2010

Learner drivers could fail their driving test if they pose a threat to the planet, under proposals being draw up by the European Commission.
Eco-driving is one of a number of initiatives aimed at improving the next generation of drivers

Braking suddenly, revving the engine or wasting fuel by being too heavy on the accelerator pedal could prove costly.
This is because Brussels wants to include “eco-driving” – cutting carbon emissions at the wheel – in the practical driving test.
The plans, which could consign “boy racer” drivers to history, were unveiled earlier this week by Siim Kallas, the EU’s Transport Commissioner as part of a comprehensive road safety strategy for the next decade.

It would be achieved by widening the current EU Driving Licence Directive, which is binding on all member states.
In Britain “eco-driving” has been included in the written test since September 2008.
But making it part of the practical examination would mean that learner drivers would not only have to be safe drivers but also “clean” ones as well.

“This is absolutely ridiculous,” said Claire Armstrong of the motoring group, Safe Speed.
“How is driving in an environmentally unfriendly manner posing a danger to other road users.
“In any case people want to drive in an economical manner, because keeping a car on the road is so expensive.”

Andrew Howard, the AA’s head of road safety, also voiced some misgivings.
“My concern that somebody could be mark down twice for the same piece of bad driving such as accelerating too fast,” he said.
“I suppose there would be one benefit, the young say they are short of money and this would encourage them to save fuel.”

But Stephen Joseph, executive director (check) of the Campaign for Better Transport, welcomed the initiative.
“This is a practical and common sense measure. Training people drive in this way would save them money and the planet as well.”

Eco-driving is one of a number of initiatives aimed at improving the next generation of drivers.
The EU also wants to introduce a probation period for newly qualified drivers, who would be subject to stricter restrictions than other motorists.

The Government gave the proposals a cool response. “We will study with interest the EU road safety strategy and the specific proposals within it,” said Mike Penning, a transport minister.
“This strategy outlines plans for the next ten years and at present there is no specific legislative proposal in this area.
“Any new proposals that emerge – including the widening of the EU driving licence directive – will be subject to scrutiny by the UK and European parliaments and subject to negotiations between Member States.
“We will negotiate strongly to ensure any changes to current legislation are consistent with our domestic road safety policy and represent the best interests of UK citizens.”

I also said "the Carbon Emission argument is still very much unproven".

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 11:55 
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eco silliness wrote:
Braking suddenly,

"Braking suddenly" uses more fuel :?:

eco silliness wrote:
...wasting fuel by being too heavy on the accelerator pedal

Engines are most efficient when approaching maximum torque output; revving beyond 3k does indeed reduce the efficiency, but that's no worse than pussyfooting on the gas pedal!

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 14:55 
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I can now foresee a new generation of "new drivers" on the road, who are frightened to accelerate or even use the correct amount of revs when pulling away from junctions, so expect to see a lot more people stalling and pulling away so slowly that it will cause frustration amongst more experienced drivers.

Just imagine driving down an NSL road to have one of these eco drivers try and pull out in front of you...they will either stall the engine after pulling out a couple of feet and cause a potential danger of collision, accelerate so slowly that you have to brake severely or hesitate so much because they fear pulling out in front of anyone, unless there is a VERY large gap in the traffic and so cause large tailbacks on the side road, that they are trying to pull out from.

More congestion and LESS road safety proposals from the people "who know best".

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My views do not represent Safespeed but those of a driver who has driven for 39 yrs, in all conditions, at all times of the day & night on every type of road and covered well over a million miles, so knows a bit about what makes for safety on the road,what is really dangerous and needs to be observed when driving and quite frankly, the speedo is way down on my list of things to observe to negotiate Britain's roads safely, but I don't expect some fool who sits behind a desk all day to appreciate that.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 15:18 
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And in particular people won't accelerate briskly on motorway sliproads and will try to join the mainline at 35 mph :roll:

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 15:23 
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It's a fact, that the people who dream up these airbrained schemes, don't have the first idea about driving, road safety or pretty well anything , in a real world situation, it seems.

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My views do not represent Safespeed but those of a driver who has driven for 39 yrs, in all conditions, at all times of the day & night on every type of road and covered well over a million miles, so knows a bit about what makes for safety on the road,what is really dangerous and needs to be observed when driving and quite frankly, the speedo is way down on my list of things to observe to negotiate Britain's roads safely, but I don't expect some fool who sits behind a desk all day to appreciate that.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 17:16 
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I do not want to pour water on the anti-eu fire....but...
Sudden or unnecessary braking is a tick in the towards-fail box now.
As is revving the engine highly and taking-off like a scalded cat.
You have to be in control of the vehicle, and any of the above do not cut the ice...
Like driving through a pothole if there is ample time to avoid it...
Like "clicking" the handbrake lever....

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 18:16 
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Quote:
Like "clicking" the handbrake lever....


Wasnt there a big debate on "To Click or not to click" a while back??

I cant actually remember what the conclusive outcome was (Cant actually remember just now how I do it for now! :? , I "Think" I pull up most of the way with the button depressed but "Click" the last ratchet or two before giving the handbrake a gentle thump to make sure it is not going to slip off again (something that it has always been a bit prone to doing! :shock: hence I always park in gear as well for good measure! ))

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 18:25 
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Changes in ten years.
Things I never had to do, part one.
You will be asked two questions from the following list:

1. Open the bonnet, identify where you would check the engine oil level and tell me how you would check that the engine has sufficient oil.
Identify the dipstick, and advise that you check the oil level against the minimum or maximum markers.

2. Open the bonnet, identify where you would check the engine coolant level and tell me who you would check that the engine has the correct level.
Identify minimum and maximum markings on the header tank and describe how to top up to the correct level.

3. Show me/tell me how you would check that the power assisted steering is working before starting a journey.
If the steering becomes heavy the system may not be working properly. Before starting a journey, two simple checks can be made. Gentle pressure on the steering wheel, maintain while the engine is started (make sure the car is in neutral) should result in a slight but noticeable movement of the steering wheel as the system begins to operate. Alternatively turning the steering wheel just after moving off will give an immediate indication that the power assisted steering is working properly.

4. Show me how you would check the parking/hand brake for excessive wear.
Demonstrate by applying the handbrake that it secures itself and is not at the end of its working travel.

5. Show me how you would check that the headlights and tail lights are working.
Turn the ignition, switch the lights on and walk around the vehicle and check.

6. Tell me how you would check the tyres to ensure that they have sufficient tread depth and that their general condition is safe to use on the road.
Check for splits and bulges in the side walls and confirm that the tread depth has a minimum of 1.6 mm of tread over ¾ of the width of the tyre, over the whole circumference.

7. Open the bonnet, identify where the brake fluid reservoir is and tell me how you would check that you have a safe level of hydraulic brake fluid.
Identify the reservoir, check the level against the minimum and maximum level markings.

8. Show me how you would check that the horn is working (off road only).
Turn on the ignition and use the horn.

9. Tell me how you would check that the brakes are working before starting a journey.
Brakes should not feel spongy or slack. Brakes should be tested as you set off. Your vehicle should not pull to one side.

10. Tell me where you would find the information for the recommended tyre pressure for this car and how you would check the tyre pressures.
Manufactures guide, use a reliable pressure gauge, check and adjust pressures when the tyres are cold. Don’t forget the spare tyre and remember to refit the dust caps.

11. Show me how you would check that the direction indicators are working.
Turn on the ignition, switch on the indicators or hazard lights and walk around the car checking they are working properly.

12. Identify where the windscreen washer reservoir is and tell me how you would check the windscreen washer lever.
Identify reservoir and describe how you would check.

13. Show me how you would check that the brake lights are working on this car.
Operate brake pedal, make use of reflections in the windows, garage doors etc, or ask someone to help you check.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 19:39 
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Dusty wrote:
Quote:
Like "clicking" the handbrake lever....


Wasnt there a big debate on "To Click or not to click" a while back??

I cant actually remember what the conclusive outcome was (Cant actually remember just now how I do it for now! :? , I "Think" I pull up most of the way with the button depressed but "Click" the last ratchet or two before giving the handbrake a gentle thump to make sure it is not going to slip off again (something that it has always been a bit prone to doing! :shock: hence I always park in gear as well for good measure! ))


I do almost likewise -but only if ever the last click( don't like metal on metal contact) .If on a hill ,I'll use the foot pedal to make sure the shoes are hard up against the drums ,before pulling on .( Might be imagination ,but IMHO it reduces cable stretch,) . Another old dodge ,I'll use put the front wheels at an angle against the kerb to prevent runaway if anything fails( seem to remember this was in earlier versions of HC) .( Belt braces and a bit of string-and most of my early cars were BM/BL-anyone see the Top Gear BL/BMC handbrake test at MIRA,with cars running away backwards will remember why) .

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 20:28 
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Take this egg ans teach your Granny how to suck it.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 21:30 
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dcbwhaley wrote:
Take this egg ans teach your Granny how to suck it.


DCB - now saying this politely - "please elucidate/interpolate or otherwise express the relationship between granny and egg " :wink: :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 08:19 
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botach wrote:
dcbwhaley wrote:
Take this egg ans teach your Granny how to suck it.


DCB - now saying this politely - "please elucidate/interpolate or otherwise express the relationship between granny and egg " :wink: :wink:


Not really sure of the relationship: but Granny did die of Salmonella :o

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 10:17 
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PeterE wrote:
And in particular people won't accelerate briskly on motorway sliproads and will try to join the mainline at 35 mph :roll:


Particularly as most sliproads are downhill, where you have gravity helping you. But they wait until they're on the (flat) motorway before accelerating up to speed. How's that supposed to help economy? :roll:

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 00:04 
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When I took my test, most "ordinary" cars only had 4 gears. I believe it was possible to fail if you didn't use all the gears ("incorrect use of the gears" or somesuch). Now as the test took place entirely within 30 limits, the car that I was driving was never very happy in 4th at those speeds, but I had to flick it in there now and then just to show that I knew where it was... :roll:

In much the same way, I'm sure that this "eco-driving" part of the test will be just another thing that anyone can do whilst taking their driving test and then ignore thereafter, if the conditions demand it!

Interestingly a mate of mine went on a driving course with a very famous advanced driving instructor and was told off for being in to HIGH a gear (less control - poor throttle response in an emergency). He protested about economy and was told bluntly that you can't have both!

As for handbrake ratchets, I can't think of any car made in the last 40 years or so that hasn't had a hardened pawl and teeth, so I really wouldn't get hung up about it! How many cars in scrapyards still have perfectly healthy handbrake ratchets? 99.999% I would imagine! I'm just breaking my last car now. Having got to the quarter million mile mark, it's handbrake is still perfectly serviceable!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 00:25 
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Mole wrote:

As for handbrake ratchets, I can't think of any car made in the last 40 years or so that hasn't had a hardened pawl and teeth, so I really wouldn't get hung up about it! How many cars in scrapyards still have perfectly healthy handbrake ratchets? 99.999% I would imagine! I'm just breaking my last car now. Having got to the quarter million mile mark, it's handbrake is still perfectly serviceable!



Sorry - mate - I did a bit of mech eng on my Electronics HND ,but to me ,you don't strain mechanical components, driving is all about putting as little stress as possible on mechanical components - hence reducing the cost of repairs . ( Almost like electronic design - where you design components to live with minimum stress).
I was always taught to have button on till last minute - to save wear . Probably I'll see my licence scrapped before I do otherwise .

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 07:28 
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botach wrote:
( Almost like electronic design - where you design components to live with minimum stress).

No! You design or select electronic components to more than adequately cope with the stress that they will have to meet. If, for example, a capacitor is across a ten volt line you fit a fifteen volt rated component - you don't fit a ten volt capacitor and then specify that the power unit cannot have any upward tolerance.

S0, with handbrakes it is a question of how the manufacturer has designed the ratchet to operate.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 12:45 
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I wouldn't want to put anyone off pressing the button on their handbrake whilst applying it if it eases their "mechanical conscience"! I'm merely pointing out that in my experience, it's pretty pointless! I don't really want, or need, my handbrake mechanism to last any longer than the rest of the car, so I don't bother. There are some thing that I DO consider worthwhile (like dipping the clutch and not braking over speed bumps to ive the suspension bushes and CV joints an easier time).

Anyway Botach, how can you live with yourself knowing that you're greatly increasing the number of cycles through which you're putting the poor little return spring behind the handbrake button?! :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 23:06 
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As someone who learnt to do handbrake turns at an early driving age (we had a lot of snowy winters just after I passed my test), you get used to holding the button in, in order to be able to release the handbrake quickly at the right instant, so it becomes instinctive to do so every time that you put the handbrake on. I was also taught to hold the button in when applying the handbrake at rest on my first few lessons back inthe early 70's.

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My views do not represent Safespeed but those of a driver who has driven for 39 yrs, in all conditions, at all times of the day & night on every type of road and covered well over a million miles, so knows a bit about what makes for safety on the road,what is really dangerous and needs to be observed when driving and quite frankly, the speedo is way down on my list of things to observe to negotiate Britain's roads safely, but I don't expect some fool who sits behind a desk all day to appreciate that.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 00:27 
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dcbwhaley wrote:
botach wrote:
( Almost like electronic design - where you design components to live with minimum stress).

No! You design or select electronic components to more than adequately cope with the stress that they will have to meet. If, for example, a capacitor is across a ten volt line you fit a fifteen volt rated component - you don't fit a ten volt capacitor and then specify that the power unit cannot have any upward tolerance.

.


Think that was what i said - minimum stress to my mind means not fitting to the tolerance ,but allowing for any upward increase ( i.e ,you allow for AT LEAST 50% variance) ( or that's what design( and a long time in a maintenance position) taught me -if you don't do likewise - wait for the BANG-SOMETHING we get too often these days from cost effective designers ,looking to prove a point).

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 08:31 
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botach wrote:
Think that was what i said - minimum stress to my mind means not fitting to the tolerance ,but allowing for any upward increase ( i.e ,you allow for AT LEAST 50% variance) ( or that's what design( and a long time in a maintenance position) taught me -if you don't do likewise - wait for the BANG-SOMETHING we get too often these days from cost effective designers ,looking to prove a point).


Sorry. Misunderstood you. Quite in agreement with you - 50% over-specification is my minimum standard and my designs rarely loose their smoke. Except when the assemblers put electrolytics in backwards. :o
compact flourescent lamps are a glaring example of the problems you get when you under-specify capacitors. Most cheap CFLs use 65degree capacitors in an environment where the teperature can get much higher. So they frequently don't achieve the advertised life.

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