I have only ever driven in Italy once, for about 2 weeks. At first I thought of them as crazy. My first "crazy" experience was on a two-way highway with no divider. The traffic coming the other way was fairly regular with virtually no overtaking opportunities.
I was stuck behind a fairly large vehicle waiting for a gap when the guy behind simply pulled out and overtook me and the vehicle in front. I was stunned
The really amazing thing was that when I saw him pull out I moved over to give him room, as did the large vehicle in front of me AND the vehicles coming the other way. No flashing lights, no tooting horns... and he was gone.
After the second "nutter" passed me I decided, "well, if that's how they do it here I may as well join in" and passed the vehicle in front. No flashing lights, no tooting horns and I was past.
My next experience was one of a 5 line motorway funnelling into two lanes near the Florence railway station. Other than the occasional toot the whole episode was painless. If you were 1" ahead of the guy beside you, you had right of way.
Yes, they may be crazy, but I had to admire them and I never felt in danger. Even when two motorcycle cops sporting fully automatic guns pulled me over for speeding (I was driving a BMW, wouldn't have happened if I was driving a Ferrari) and then waved me on when I could not speak Italian.
I loved their roads and I enjoyed driving with them.
Never got to the supposed "major nutters" in Rome though. We only got half way down and then cut across to Nice (I think

- it was 15 years ago)