Safe Speed Forums

Rain

Well – have briefly discussed my natty pair of yellow tights and matching lurid tops! I think I look very smart and cool. Goes a bit quiet like in the snug when I walk in - and I get noticed immediately. Don’t have to wait for my ploughman’s followed by a swift half!

Ok – so I have a waterproof YELLOW OIL SKIN FISHERMAN’S CAPE for seriously wet weather and it keeps the bars and gears dry too.

But what are the obvious disadvantages to me when I choose to use this (and less frequently now than 15 years or so ago) and why would I choose to wear a full rain suit instead?

And why would I never use a hood?

Little quicky quiz

1. Why would you use equal force on both front and rear brakes in wet weather?

2. Why should a cyclist in particular apply the brakes earlier in wet weather?

3. Why would I insist that your braking should be gentle, and why you may need to press the brake levers gently once, release and then gently brake again.

4. Why would it be to your advantage to lightly apply the brakes as you ride along in very very heavy rainy conditions?

5 What other things should you be doing – think about spray, puddle splash avoidance and road position!

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What you want to avoid is loss of control, i.e. a skid, so don't brake hard (or lean the bike over) on a white line or a metal grid for instance as friction is seriously reduced in the wet.

Whether you have treaded tyres or not is irrelevant on a racing bike with high pressure tyres (100-120 psi) as you have to be doing 200 mph before a bike tyre will aquaplane, but the compound isn't irrelevant. In the same way as with car and motorbike tyres some are engineered for grip, others for long life. The problem is that as far as I am aware which do what best aren't publicised so trial and error or information via forums like these is the only way to find out.

Rim brakes rely on friction between the brake blocks and the rims so the water has to be rubbed off before the blocks will "bite". Hence the delay in wet weather. If you have gone down a long hill with the brakes on and you were to touch the rims with your finger you would get burnt. In extreme cases tyres have been known to burst from the heat.

The other thing which will reduce your braking efficiency is grit getting between the block and the rim. The grit in turn will shear little pieces of aluminium off the rim which will get embedded in the rubber blocks, further reducing efficiency. Hence it is important to regularly inspect the blocks and dig out the bits of aluminium. Also check that you haven't worn through the braking surface - a very nasty accident awaits if you have!

What I'd really like for the winter is a lightweight (carbon or titanium) racer with mudguards, a front mudflap and disc brakes - as very little grit and muck gets to the hub area. These bikes do not exist as far as I know - not yet anyway.

About puddles - you never know what they may conceal - a big hole that will damage your wheels or even throw you off is quite possible. But don't swerve into the path of a vehicle whilst avoiding a puddle.

Lastly, heavy rain means that grit and stones get washed down roads. A bend on a hill can easily have gravel in the middle of the road during heavy rain and for some time after until vehicle tyres have brushed it to one side. So take care on hills after heavy rain, particularly after torrential downpours.

build your own?

sounds much like what some used for redbull road rage race: