When we drive or ride we expect that by 'this time of achievement' (i.e qualified to drive on the roads) we will have gained, appropriate knowledge and understanding, to be pretty well capable of coping with the roads, and as long as we go carefully and properly, we will be safe, and through on-going experience become a good driver.
To understand about some specific fact or facts, specifically for winter driving, would imply that with knowledge there comes a precise answer or collection of facts to provide an answer, but things are generally more involved than this.
It can be good to start by asking first, what is the 'core reason/s' that accidents occur ? How might we improve drivers / riders and the road to help improve conditions through better rules/regs and through engineering (management, development and control, and inc car developments / testing). Groups of people over the years have advised the Governments and Road Safety Bodies, how to improve the roads, cars, & driver attitude, ability knowledge and skills, to help to create safer environments. After all it is accident prevention, that is at the very heart of Road Safety Policy, no one goes out to have a crash.
(see
http://www.safespeed.org.uk/ten.html) (The crucial 10 seconds, prior to an accident.)
Most accidents core reason, stem from frustration, or inattention. Many other reasons are less common but obviously play a part and may be more prominent on occasion.
So what of black ice. Well the 'good' and experienced driver would be very aware of the temperature, the road conditions, how gritty the road is and perhaps when the road was last gritted. Was that road a trunk route and gritted as a priority or will it be ages before the road is even looked at. This influences when the journey may take place perhaps, allowing extra or even a LOT of extra journey time to allow to going slowly and never having to rush or 'push' at all - a journey without any time pressure. You may have winter tyres on (as mentioned above and great point !
). A route may also be altered for straighter roads in preference to the quieter 'back' roads, where more trees and bushes perhaps make a road more likely to have higher ice probabilities.
So then we have the 'best' choice route, and that might have to still include 'minor roads' as some are unavoidable, but we have allowed time to be safe. (i.e. go slow) We then can move onto the car - ensuring all the winter back up clothes, blankets, food and drink, car accessories, and water screen cleaner and scraper (ensuring fresh blades before winter - old rubber won't help!). making sure that the battery is good too and that the car is good mechanically to give one the best chance for most possibilities.
Many cars have devices in of all kinds to warn of temperature changes and these can be useful. A driver can use them as guides to climbing into higher altitude and cooler climates, as well as when the weather is colder and MUCH more care is required as ice is about.
Modern cars are mostly FWD (front wheel drive) so the driver should know that they WILL FEEL less through the steering wheel, so the slightest hint should be read with extreme caution. Even now and again a small steering input to 'test' the road grip to see if there is ANY ice about. If you are unsure then you stop in a layby and check the road with your foot (or hand) and see if the car is telling you that ice is there. Some roads have ice in the deeper road pockets but still grip on the top raised 'pebbles/stones' of the road surface. IF it is nighttime then the lights will shine a light back off any ice - almost like a glittering sequences (ish) and you immediately know that it is there.
The trees / bushes / hedgerows, or pavements/ walkways/ may well have signs of icy weather, with a small matty glimmer surface (cold / frost). People who are out and about may have cloudy breaths, all pointing to very cold conditions. Allow all cars to overtake you - prob by pulling over to their side of the road IF they are following too close, or if you just want them gone for safety reasons.
As we travel and we are sure the surface is OK we can never assume that all parts are therefore OK. A road with hedges and trees might have less snow fall but with ice conditions they can be the worst as some of those areas stay cold all day and at night they freeze over very easily.
Now if the steering tells you you have just hit black ice, you do NOTHING, to the steering, at most ease off the throttle v gently, if you have steering on - well then, you should already be going slow and steady so, be ready for a skid, but just stay with it all as it is (unless you are already in a skid or early stages of one). Sometimes you can hit the patch and be over it almost before you know it. By doing nothing the cars momentum will retain the cars forward propulsion, if you are steering already, then the car will highly likely spin, or be into a skid with rapid onslaught. Then you have to be ready to 'catch it', as soon as the car starts regain some grip.
Now there ARE techniques (like hitting the throttle and deliberately spinning the wheels, but they are advanced, for this initial discussion),
BUT the 'trick' (or information), if you like, is ALL in the Driver's PRIOR Knowledge, Awareness, & Ability to JUDGE accurately, that ice, IS or COULD be about.
It is never there 'out of the blue' the warnings, are there, if you look for them. Many see but do not 'observe'.
Once in a while, the sudden cold areas, can be a little bit of a surprise, but if we think back, we were NOT observing the environment properly, (inattention), or being aware, that the route took us into cold higher altitude regions, and perhaps we had also failed to see the weather signs.